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McLaren Vale’s Kangarilla Road Wines – wine finesse for less dollars than expected

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I tried a bottle of Kangarilla Road Shiraz Viognier on the weekend, which reminded me of a recent visit to meet Kangarilla’s owner Kevin O’Brien. Kevin and his wife Helen started Kangarilla Road wines in 1997 – he himself a trained oenologist with 20 years in the wine industry.

Kevin O'Brien from Kangarilla Road

Kevin O'Brien from Kangarilla Road

The winery and most of its vineyards are based between McLaren Vale and Kangarilla just on Kangarilla road. Because of its slightly higher position compared to most vineyards in the McLaren district, its fruit ripen slower with an aim for more elegance.

I was certainly impressed with their Chardonnay, I tasted the 2008 one with 13.5% alcohol and really liked its length and character, taking into consideration that this wine retails for $15 (under EUR9).

Asked for his own favourite, Kevin named his 2006 Cabernet Sauvignon for his completeness. The wine is full of flavour but not off. Historically McLaren Vale had a 50/50 split of Shiraz and Cab Sav plantings and only in the last years, the Shiraz variety had overtaken the Cab Sav’s number of plantings. Tasting this Cabernet it became clear why Kangarilla aims for this variety.

Between McLaren Vale and Kangarilla

Between McLaren Vale and Kangarilla

Back to my wine of last night: a 2006 Shiraz – a blend of selected parcels from the district. Mixed weather conditions with loads of rain in spring and a mild summer led to a milder February than usual in McLaren Vale. The use of 25% french and the rest american oak helped display a finer flavour than usual from this region and I really enjoyed the dark plum characters with a good elegance.

A nice example of a fully ripened but not overdone Shiraz from McLaren Vale.

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Bei meinem Besuch in McLaren Vale vergangenen Sommer schaute ich bei Kevin O’Brien vorbei, er startete vor 12 Jahren die Kangarilla Road winery gemeinsam mit seiner Frau Helen. Die Weine liegen preislich am unteren Ende der weiten Preisskala der Region und dennoch muessen sie sich keineswegs hinter den Wettbewerbern verstecken. Ich selbst probierte am Wochenende den 2006 Shiraz, der durch eine gute Eleganz auffiel, die Reben von diversen Lagen etwas oberhalb des McLaren Vale geerntet und daher mit Finesse ausgestattet.

Michael Brecht

Related posts:

  1. The Cadenzia Ensemble – McLaren Vale’s Top Wineries define their local preference
  2. McLaren Vale Shiraz Grenache – a combination made in heaven
  3. McLaren Vale in South Australia – where the vines meet the sea
  4. Riebke Ebenezer Road Shiraz – ein toller Roter aus dem noerdlichen Barossa Valley
  5. Why is Australia so suitable for growing Grenache? Interview with Fred Howard

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