Archive for July, 2009

Australia’s favourite wine guide released yesterday: James Halliday’s 2010 edition

Each year towards the end of the month of July Australia’s wine industry awaits the arrival of the release of its bible: the Australian Wine Companion, published by the Australian ‘wine-pope’ James Halliday. I had the chance to interview James Halliday last year when he was releasing last year’s edition and found him a very pleasant and remarkably relaxed person.

James Halliday launches Wine Companion in Sydney

James Halliday launches Wine Companion in Sydney

This year’s guide holds tasting notes of 5,884 wines, it includes 148 new wineries and vintage rating charts for each wine region downunder.

For some wineries, this is the highlight of the year as they rely on sales coming out of (hopefully good) ratings from Halliday. For others, it is not even worth entering as they hardly see any results coming out of this guide. A third category is the group of wineries, that scores well in the Companion but due to the lack of stock runs out of their highly scoring wines shortly after the release of the book.

Tertini Wines from the Southern Highlands is such an example. This year they score 4.5 stars in Halliday’s companion, a very nice result for such a young winery, in particular after being judged a 3 star winery last year. This year’s result is a great endorsement for winemaker, viticulturist and everyone involved, though the success is only one step on Julian Tertini’s long term plans for his wine-making business. The problem though is that its highest scoring wine, a private cellar collection Riesling 2006 only exists in very limited quantities and will not last very long.

Never mind, the companion was launched yesterday and will be great reading material for the wine enthusiast in Australia and beyond.
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Australien’s Weinpabst James Halliday bringt alljaehrlich seinen Wine Companion in dieser australischen Winterszeit heraus, dieses Jahr testete er alleine 5.884 Weine. Die australischen Winzer warten gespannt auf die Ergebnisse, fuer viele von ihnen ist eine gute Benotung in dem Fuehrer bestes Marketingmittel beim Vertrieb ihrer Tropfen. Fuer viele Weine, die besonders gut bei Halliday abschneiden gilt leider, dass deren Auflage sehr knapp bemessen ist und haeufig findet man daher das Schild ‘sold out’ in der Cellar Door.

Ihr Michael Brecht


Penfolds and Gemtree – two of Australia’s finest wines star in Hamburg

Wine cellar in Tschebull restaurant Hamburg

Wine cellar in Tschebull restaurant Hamburg

The European country with almost the same name but without the Roos has a fantastic presence in Hamburg’s centre of town: Austria’s culinary presence in Germany’s North is Tschebull restaurant.

I had the chance to have a look into their wine cellar and found two top Australian wines on their list: Gemtree’s Shiraz and Penfold’s Grange are the two representatives from down under – two well chosen participants from South Australia. I am impressed.

Temperatures above 30 degrees in Hamburg unfortunately don’t allow too many Germans this summer to experience one of these two great wines, it is time for white, rose or sparkling and in these categories, we do not find any Australians (yet).

What a shame!
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Das Tschebull im Zentrum Hamburgs ist eigentlich eines der oesterreichischen Toprestaurants in Deutschlands hohem Norden. Eine coole Atmosphaere gepaart mit feinster oesterriechischer Kueche, Lounge, Bar und Beisl machen neugierig auf mehr. Am besten jedoch gefaellt mir das Design auf den Toiletten – kein Scherz – hierher lohnt sich ein Besuch.

Ich bin sehr ueberrascht, als ich auf der Weinkarte zwei hochklassige Vertreter australischer Weinkunst entdecke: Gemtree aus McLaren Vale und Penfolds mit seinem Grange, letzterer ist mit seinem 1997er Jahrgang fuer EURO 440 vertreten.

Mir selbst ist es bei mehr als 30 Grad zu heiss fuer einen Roten – leider gibt es keine weissen Australier im Angebot – eigentlich schade.

Two Australian wines star in Hamburg

Two Australian wines star in Hamburg

Ihr Michael Brecht


Low cost – low profile – decreasing marketshare – is this Australia’s strategy for the German wine market?

The German wine market experiences comparable volume effects to our Australian markets: a huge oversupply of both red and white varieties combined with a growing concentration of distribution channels. Australian exporters face the struggle of competing with German wines, that celebrate some kind of revival in the past years, and with wines from high volume producers from South America, the US or South Africa.

Wine exports to Germany

Wine exports to Germany

So far, the answer of Australian exporters has been to compete on a price level, the average price for an Australian bottle of wine in German retail outlets is under $3.00. How many wineries are able to survive on a $3.00 retail value? I guess we are talking about a handful only and quite honestly, these guys have not been profitable for a while now.

The Australian export drama in Europe culminated with the closure of the Wine and Brandy Corporation’s office in most European countries, leaving German retailers, wine media and last but not least consumers without any point of contact.

Wine marketing is all about creating excitement for the bottled liquid, it needs effective communication of trends, winemakers, wine regions from one country. My past weeks in Germany have shown me the outcome of such ‘low cost’ (or ‘no-cost’) strategy: Australian wine is seen as a cheap and high volume supermarket good – only a few brands such as Penfolds, Henschke or D’Arenberg have a chance to position their high-end varieties in restaurants or exclusive retail.

Is this it? There is a part in me which tells me that this market is probably too distant, too difficult, to dangerous for Australian winemakers. The other part in me tells me that a market with 81m people, with 150,000 travellers to Australia every year, with a purchasing power and a high interest in whatever originates down under cannot simply be given up by Australia’s highly innovative wine industry. Let us see, how we can tackle this issue – I am interested about your views, so please feel free to write your comments next to this article.
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Der deutsche Markt scheint fuer australische Weinexporteure ein schweres Pflaster zu sein. Neben einem Ueberangebot an Tropfen aus allen Ecken dieser Erde erlebt der deutsche Wein in den vergangenen Jahren ein wahres come-back. Vorbei sind die Zeiten, in welchen ein einbevorzugter Spruch meines frueheren VWL Professors ‘wer Rheinhessen saeuft, der saeuft auch Aral’ durchaus Berechtigung hatte.

Deutschland war im vorvergangenen Jahr der zweitgroesste Weinmarkt Europas fuer die Australier, allerdings ist der Durchschnittspreis einer australischen Flasche in deutschen Regalen auf unter EURO 2 gerutscht.

Und ausgerechnet in diesem schwierigen Markt schliesst die wichtige Australian Wine & Brandy Corporation ihr deutsches Office – gerade jetzt wo es darauf ankommt wichtige Neuerungen, Hintergrundinfos oder auch nur Erfolgsstories der australischen Winzer zu publizieren. Das nenne ich an der falschen Stelle gespart, ein Beispiel:

Ein befreundeter Weinjournalist in Hamburg berichtet mir, dass er seit mehreren Wochen vergeblich auf eine Antwort der AWBC aus London auf eine Infoanfrage wartet – so kann man natuerlich weder Marktanteile in einem umkaempften Markt halten, geschweige denn in hoeherwertigere Marktsegemente vordringen.

Australischer Wein ist hier in Deutschland ein Massenprodukt – leider als solches qualitativ minderwertig und wenn hier nicht ganz bald ein frischer Wind einzieht, dann kann der australische Weinexporteur diesen Markt komplett abschreiben.

Ihr Michael Brecht


Australian Wine in Europe

I am currently traveling Europe and while Hamburg is not known for its brilliant summer weather, I have arrived here with clear blue skies and a nice 26 degrees today. No time for a visit to nearby tourist attractions, I have a meeting with Eckhard Supp, publisher of German wine blog ENO Worldwine and himself a fan of Australian wines.

Eckhard has spent many months traveling down under and asked me a few months ago, whether we could provide some background info to Australian wine developments for his blog. With the decision of the Australian Wine and Brandy Corporation to close its German office, news on wines from down under is scarce: it is a real pleasure for us to help Eckhard and his team out.

Australian $3 wines in German supermarkets

Australian $3 wines in German supermarkets

We discussed at length how Australian wine is perceived in Germany and its problems with an image of cheap and cheerful, mainly distasteful supermarket wines. It is on us to change this perception as downunderwines aims to bring across that there is so much more to wines from down under than $2-cheapies.
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Gestern habe ich bei herrlichem Hamburger Sommerwetter (ja so etwas gibt es tatsaechlich!) Eckhard Supp getroffen, seines Zeichens deutscher Weinjournalist und Verleger.

Er selbst ist ein grosser Kenner der australischen Weinszene und somit entsponn sich ein langes und intensives Gespraech ueber die Qualitaet und den Anspruch australischer Weine.

Kennengelernt ueber Twitter, inhaltlich ueber die beiden Blogs verbunden und nun auch persoenlich in Kontakt, die grosse Welt des Web 2.0 macht es moeglich – hat Spass gemacht und macht Lust auf mehr.

Ihr Michael Brecht


A new sparkling Chardonnay from DogRidge – we love that pup

Before leaving to Germany for our summer holidays we were able to try a new sparkling coming out of McLaren Vale. Introduced as ‘The Pup’, one of the first bottles out of DogRidge’s cellar arrived on our doorstep and we couldn’t resist opening it on the night. It was also the birthday of our dog, so we thought that the occasion was appropriate.

Sparkling Chardonnay from DogRidge

Sparkling Chardonnay from DogRidge

Wine maker Fred Howard this time delivers a sparkling Chardonnay with the best match of variety, vineyard and terroir.

The resealable top allows you to save a sip for later, if you really have to: Peel – Lift – Reseal – the three magic words for this excellent closure of your bottle. It is the first time I have used this seal, it was as easy as with the only open question for us remaining, whether the seal really works. Why: we simply drank the sparkling on the night and therefore didn’t have any leftovers to be sealed for the night.

The official release date of this sparkling is the 1st of August – so you have to be a bit patient before trying it out yourselves.
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The Pup – oder ein neuer Welpe kommt aus dem Hause DogRidge aus McLaren Vale. Wir hatten das Vergnuegen eine der ersten Flaschen zu testen, weit vor dem offiziellen Startdatum, dem 1. August. Ein herrlich frischer Australian Sparkling, frisch, fruchtig und ideal fuer den schoenen Sommerabend mit ein paar Freunden auf der Terasse. ‘Der Pup’ kommt in einer Flasche mit neuem wiederverschliessbaren Verschluss, ‘Peal – Lift – Reseal’ sind die magischen Worte – letztlich benoetigten wir diesen Komfort nicht, denn wir tranken die Flasche an jenem Abend komplett aus.

Also: ab dem 1.8. im australischen Einzelhandel, hoffentlich bald auch einmal in Europa.

Ihr Michael Brecht


Germany Calling – how do we get Germans to drink the real Australian wine

There are 150,000 German speaking tourists traveling Australia every year, many of them visit the wine regions and experience some of the magnificent wines from the Barossa Valley, McLaren Vale, the Hunter or from one of the younger regions such as the Southern Highlands or Orange. This is the good news.

Australian Red Wine for under EUR3.00

Australian Red Wine for under EUR3.00

Unfortunately there is bad news too. On my recent travels to Germany I had to discover, that Germans simply don’t have good access to wines from Australia as they are flooded with cheapies in local supermarkets.

The photo is proof for the terrible news supported by Austrade’s office in Frankfurt telling me that the average retail price for Australian wine in Germany is well under $3.00.

You cannot get a decent cup of coffee in Australia for this price let alone a bottle of wine. And then we expect to have our Australian drops exported overseas for such price. Terrible.

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Mehr als 150,000 deutschsprachige Touristen bereisen Australien Jahr fuer Jahr, viele von Ihnen trinken australischen Wein in einer der vielen beruehmten Regionen oder in einer der Metropolen wie Sydney oder Melbourne. Ein Blick in die Weinregale deutscher Supermaerkte zeigt jedoch, dass es in Deutschland diese Weine noch nicht gibt. Der Durchschnittspreis einer Flasche australischen roten oder weissen Weins in Deutschland liegt nach Auskunft von Austrade bei unter EUR 1.50 – kein Wunder dass man da keine grossartigen Tropfen erwaten darf.

Unser Team von downunderwines arbeitet an einer Loesung fuer dieses Problem – denn so kann das mit dem Vertrieb australischer Boutique Weine nicht weitergehen.

Ihr Michael Brecht


A Barossa Rose from Gomersal – traveling wine expert Julia raves about it

Our traveling wine expert Julia has sent us this report about the tasting of her favourite Rose from the Barossa Valley:

Rose from the Barossa Valley

Rose from the Barossa Valley

Julia raves about the 2008 Shiraz Rose from Gomersal Wines. For 18 Dollars she bought this wine in retail, sipping this quoffa on a hot summers night in the Barossa Valley. Strawberries and the aroma of cherries and oranges make this Rose a real fruity experience. This wine would be well suited to the very warm and humid climate currently residing in Germany and Switzerland.Thank you Julia for your report.

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Einer meiner absoluten Favoriten fuer den Sommer ist der 2008 Shiraz Rose von Gomersal Wine. Er hat 18 Dollar die Flasche gekostet. Der Wein schmeckt am besten eisgekuehlt (so hab ich ihn an einem heissen Sommerabend im Barossa getrunken) und man schmeckt das fruchtige Erdbeeren und Himbeerenaroma raus. Mit den vorhandenen Orangen- und Kirscharoma ist es mit Abstand der beste Wein, den ich dort probiert habe – war genau nach meinem Geschmack! Ihre Julia

Haben auch Sie einen Reisebericht aus einer australischen Weinregion, so senden Sie uns einfach Ihren Bericht.

Ihr Michael Brecht